WILL FASHION SURVIVE ?

PH. NICOLA PAGANO

Mumi Haiati is now considered one of the visionaries in communication who are redefining the rules of the fashion system. With his agency, Reference Studios, founded in 2017, he has turned Berlin into a key player on the global stage, fostering a new and original dialogue between the city and the major fashion capitals. His work spans multiple fields, from public relations to creative direction, from strategy to producing cultural events. Haiati collaborates with some of the most influential names in the international scene, including 032c, Gentle Monster, Supreme, Universal Music Group, Rimowa, Gucci, and Nike. Recently, he expanded his reach by opening offices in Paris and now Milan, further solidifying Reference Studios as a global creative hub. We had the pleasure of speaking with him to understand where fashion is headed and what challenges and opportunities lie ahead.

Let's start from the beginning: what’s your first memory related to fashion?

Probably when I used to dress up my sister’s Barbies, a game that, without realizing it, shaped my aesthetic sensibility. Then, later on, I had a revelation watching Robert Altman’s film Prêt-à-Porter. It was an ironic, irreverent take on the fashion world, but it made me realize just how fascinating that universe was with its dynamics, its eccentricities, and its ability to influence culture.

When did you know fashion would become your career? And how did you get started?

It was a gradual process. After studying communication in Barcelona, I moved to Paris for an internship at Totem, an agency that at the time represented some of the most revolutionary Belgian designers, like Raf Simons and Walter Van Beirendonck. That’s where I realized that fashion communication was much more than just promotional strategy, it was cultural work, capable of creating connections and shaping new visions.

What does it mean to work in fashion communication today?

We’re living through a period of great transformation. The old models don’t work the way they used to, and communication has become the beating heart of every brand. It’s no longer just about presenting a product it’s about building a narrative, a value system, an authentic relationship with the audience. The challenge is to find a language that is relevant, innovative, and, above all, honest.

What is the biggest challenge for fashion brands today?

Without a doubt, oversaturation. There are too many brands, too many collections, too much information. As a result, brands often lose their sense of identity and authenticity. On top of that, the retail system is in crisis, the way we buy fashion is changing dramatically, but many brands struggle to adapt to this new reality.

The big fashion groups are going through a deep crisis. What do you think are the main causes?

It all comes down to the relentless push for growth. Brands want to expand as quickly as possible, release more collections, enter new markets often without considering their own identity. This creates a paradox: as brands grow, they lose their uniqueness. Quality declines, prices rise, and in the end, consumers feel detached and disillusioned. It’s a distortion of the system, and its limits are becoming increasingly clear.

Which emerging designers do you think deserve attention?

There are many, but the ones I follow most closely include Mowalola, Interven1on, Regular Lueder, and GR10K. They all have a strong identity and a clear vision, without being overly influenced by fleeting trends.

The West is facing economic and cultural challenges, while the UAE and China are gaining ground. Will this shift change fashion’s geography?

We’ll definitely see a rebalancing, with new cities gaining influence. Shanghai and Dubai are already key fashion capitals with huge growth potential. That said, Paris, Milan, London, and New York will remain central players. More than a shift in capitals, I think we’ll see a multiplication of creative hubs.

What are the strongest current trends? Is sustainability still a priority?

Sustainability is always part of the conversation, but often it’s more of a marketing statement than a real practice. What I’m seeing now is a kind of natural market selection. After years of forced inclusivity, the fashion system seems to be moving back toward a more rigid aesthetic. There are fewer diverse body types on runways, less experimentation in casting. It’s a trend that surprises me because it goes against what fashion’s future should be.

With the rise of conservative governments in the West, will brand activism come under scrutiny?

I don’t think fashion will stop taking a stand. Fashion is always political. What will change is how brands communicate their activism, there will be fewer superficial statements and more concrete actions. And ultimately, that’s a good thing.

Let’s talk about you: Reference Studios now has offices in Berlin, Paris, and Milan. What do you love, and what do you dislike, about each city?

I love Berlin for its creative energy and the sense of freedom you feel in the summer. But winters are tough, it can be an extremely cold city, not just in terms of weather. Paris is breathtakingly beautiful; walking through its streets with no particular destination is a joy. But the traffic is unbearable. Milan offers an incredible quality of life: the food is great, getting around is easy, and there’s a strong sense of community. If I had to point out a flaw, maybe I’d say I sometimes miss a bit more diversity.

Last question: If you ever left the fashion world, what would you love to do?

Raise dogs, host a late-night show, study art history, or become a nose in the fragrance industry. And actually, that last one is already in the works.